My time here in Zagreb is, of course, mostly dedicated to working hard as part of the Media team, playing my part in making the European Universities Games Zagreb – Rijeka 2016 the best they can be. But as well, I knew coming here it would also be important for me to make the most of my time in such a beautiful country, exploring it as much as I can. Additionally, my elder sister, having been traveling around Europe for the past month, was to have a few days in Split this week, and I wanted to try and meet with her as well. So, on Friday, when I quite luckily had a day off from duties, I used this time to my full advantage, killing two birds with one stone, and made plans to meet with her at Plitvice Lakes National Park. Comprised of sixteen lakes and countless waterfalls, the 300 square kilometers paradise of a national park and UNESCO World Heritage Site is easily accessible by bus from Zagreb and Split, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.
It was a 140 km journey for me, some two and a half hours by bus from the centre of town, for her it was meant to be 230 km, 4 hour bus journey, but unfortunately a succession of late buses and a traffic stopping bush fire delayed her by about four hours, leaving me to explore the lakes by myself for quite some time. As dismayed as I was to not spend as much time with her as planned, I found the most enchanting consolation in the park, the lakes, waterfalls and forest paths serving as an enchanting distraction from her absence.
Having left dorms around 10.30 I took the number 5 tram directly outside the Main Bus Station in Zagreb, I paid 81 KN for a seat on the 11.30 bus. A large, air-conditioned, comfortable coach (with wifi!) took me through the Croatian country side, out of the city and its large modern buildings to rich green landscapes dotted with smaller, quaint houses with shingles, painted in a range of warm hues. The bus dropped off visitors at Entrance 1 at about 13.50, and carrying on its route to the other side of the country. Paying 110KN for a ticket – discounted due to my student status – and waiting barely any time in the queue, I entered into the parks.
Almost as soon as I walked in I was greeted with a stunning view of the Veliki Slap, or, Big Waterfall. Alone, and with a considerable amount of time before my sister was potentially going to arrive, I became to meander down the slope to the waterfall, crossing between the brilliantly turquoise Kaluđerovac and Novakovića Brod. Up close, the water is crystal clear, fish swimming close to the pathways greeting visitors as they pass. Onwards to the waterfall, the charming wooden gangway was quite full with other visitors, many stopping to take photos and holding up those behind them, alas, as it is the peak season, this is only to be expected at some more prominent parts of the park, but thankfully I did not find it to be standard.
Just before the Veliki Slap I spied a set of steep steps that few visitors were venturing up. Wanting to escape some of the hustle and bustle, and curious where they would lead I became to climb. Soon, I was near at level with the top of the waterfall, high above the lower lakes, with a view for miles, and no other visitors in site. Happy with the path I found, I continued through the forest, snatches of teal and turquoise water coming through the brilliant green leaves of the trees, the vegetation clearing now and again to present breath-taking vistas. Eventually I found myself at Port Three, where I stopped to enjoy a coffee and pastry. Dogs on leashes are allowed within the parks, and I was delighted to find a dog at a neighbouring table to be eager to become friends with me before I left to board the boat to take me across Lake Kozjak. At this point it had begun to rain but thankfully the boats are roofed and I remained quite dry.
Arriving at Port Two at around 16.00, I carried on the path. At this point, with the path weaving between lakes and even stepping directly above the waterfalls, water roaring below my feet, and each turn presenting me with a new waterfall, I became quite clueless to as where I actually was on the map. Indeed, I went around in a peculiar loop once or twice. Oops. Following the occasional sign and retracing my footsteps, I made my way back to Port Two to ferry to Port One, there receiving word from my sister she had finally – at 17.50 – arrived at Entrance One. Boarding the train I met her at Stop One. Sadly, as the last bus to Zagreb was at 18.40, our brief reunion was a matter of walking back towards Entrance One and the bus stop, with a brief stop in the well-stocked souvenir store. Leaving her to explore what she could of the parks a few hours before it closed, at 20.00, I boarded on the bus back, and taking tram back to dorms again, arriving sometime after 21.00 to have dinner.
While the visit didn’t work out as the reunion it was meant to be, I still enjoyed my day immensely. I only spent about 4.5 hours in the park and covered a great deal, but I could have happily spent even longer exploring. From intimate ponds to grand lakes, wee burns to fierce waterfalls, walking through forest and over water, the parks boasts an astonishing range of unique scenery sure to impress upon anybody who visits, and if you, volunteer, athlete or official, find yourself a free day over the course of the games, I highly recommend you pay it a visit.
Buses can be taken from Zagreb Main Bus Station, which in turn can be reached by taking the 5 tram from outside the dorms. Buses start running at 5.45, with one or two leaving every hour until 23.30. On return the final bus is at 18.40.
Tickets can be reserved online before the day of travel or purchased at the bus station.
The ride takes a little over two hours, depending on which bus you get. Buses will take visitors to Entrance 1
Tickets: For a single adult entry is 180 KN and for a single student it is 110 KN
For groups of 15 adults or more, 160 KN per person, and for students, 100 KN per person. Booking is recommended for groups.
Ticket prices includes the use of transportation within the park; boat rides across the lake, as well as panoramic train rides.
Attire: It is important to wear sensible shoes – in the past visitors have, at times, injured themselves while wearing flip flops and slipping on the paths.Further, visitors are reminded to stick to the paths at all times, in the past year alone visitors have fallen to their death after leaving the path in order to get a photograph.
There are several restaurants, gift shops and cafes dotted around the park, and hotels near the entrances for those wishing to spend the night.
